— the bend the city was built around.
“The river that runs the wrong way. In 1900 the city reversed it, so it flows out from Lake Michigan instead of into it. The architecture boats leave from the bridge at Michigan Avenue, and on the Saturday before St. Patrick's Day the water turns green for a few hours. Most days it's quieter than that, steel-grey, with the Loop standing over it.
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The Chicago River runs through the center of Chicago, Illinois, with a main stem of about 1.5 miles meeting the North and South Branches at Wolf Point. The system spans 156 miles. In 1900 the Sanitary District of Chicago reversed the river's flow so wastewater would no longer empty into Lake Michigan, which supplies the city's drinking water. The reversal stands as one of the largest civil engineering feats of its era and was named a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.
Each March the Chicago Plumbers Local 130 dyes the main stem green for the Saturday closest to St. Patrick's Day, a tradition that began in 1962. The dye is a powdered vegetable formula and lasts a few hours. The rest of the year the water reads steel-grey or the muted olive of an urban estuary. The current is slow, slowed further by the locks at the lake, and boats moving through the Loop barely raise a wake.
The Chicago Riverwalk runs 1.25 miles along the main stem south bank, from Lake Shore Drive to Lake Street. The Chicago Architecture Center's river cruise launches from the dock at Michigan Avenue and DuSable Bridge and runs about ninety minutes, threading the three branches and pointing out the work of Sullivan, Mies, and Jeanne Gang. Boats run April through November. The Riverwalk itself stays open through the cold months, and most of its restaurants stay open with it.