— — the hour the hoodoos catch fire.
“The amphitheater holds thousands of hoodoos, limestone columns the rain and frost have been sharpening for fifty million years. The rim sits above 8,000 feet, and the cold comes in fast after sunset. People walk to Sunrise Point in the dark and wait. When the light arrives it lands on the spires first and works its way down. Nobody says much.
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Bryce Canyon National Park sits on the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau in southern Utah, about 270 miles south of Salt Lake City. The rim road runs along the top at elevations between 8,000 and 9,100 feet, and the main amphitheater drops roughly 1,000 feet to its floor. The park was established in 1928, after years of advocacy by the Union Pacific Railroad, which built the original lodge. It covers 35,835 acres along the rim of the Grand Staircase, the long sequence of cliffs that climbs north from the Grand Canyon.
The amphitheater faces east, so the first sun of the day strikes the hoodoos before it reaches the rim. Photographers wait at Sunrise Point, just north of the lodge, in temperatures that often run below freezing into June. The orange and pink in the rock come from iron oxides in the Claron Formation; backlit at dawn, those pigments read almost incandescent. The window lasts about twenty minutes. By mid-morning the light flattens out and the spires lose dimension. Evening at Bryce Point reverses the effect, with shadows pooling between columns.
The hoodoos are eroded from the Claron Formation, a 50-million-year-old freshwater limestone laid down when southern Utah held a chain of large lakes. Frost-wedging does most of the carving. Bryce sees roughly 200 freeze-thaw cycles a year, more than almost any other park in the system. Water seeps into vertical fractures, freezes, and pries the rock apart column by column. Geologists estimate the rim is retreating south at about a foot every 50 to 65 years. The amphitheater visible today did not exist in its current form a million years ago.