— — a long barrier of sand the horses kept.
“A thirty-seven-mile barrier island running south from Ocean City along the Maryland and Virginia shore, broken by an inlet the 1933 hurricane opened in a single night. Two herds of wild horses live here, one on each side of the state line, descended from animals on the island for centuries. The Atlantic surf works the eastern shore; the bayside is salt marsh and loblolly pine. The horses graze the dunes as if no one were watching.
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Assateague Island is a barrier island about 37 miles long, running south from Ocean City, Maryland, into Accomack County, Virginia. It is divided across three units — Assateague Island National Seashore at the north, Assateague State Park within the Maryland section, and Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge at the Virginia end. The Ocean City Inlet that separates Assateague from Fenwick Island was opened by the August 1933 hurricane and has been maintained since. The island faces the Atlantic to the east and the shallow Sinepuxent and Chincoteague Bays to the west.
The island's calendar turns on the Chincoteague Pony Swim, held the last Wednesday of July since 1925. The Saltwater Cowboys of the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company drive the Virginia herd across the channel at slack tide, and most of the year's foals are auctioned the following day. Spring brings nesting piping plovers and beach closures on the dune line; autumn brings the quiet stretches when the campgrounds open back up and the green-flies have left.
The Maryland side is reached over the Verrazano Bridge from Berlin on Route 611; the Virginia side from the town of Chincoteague on Route 175. Day-use fees apply at the Maryland entrance; the Chincoteague refuge charges separately. Oceanside camping is bookable through Recreation.gov well in advance for summer weekends. The horses are wild and the National Park Service asks visitors to keep at least 40 feet away; bites and kicks are the most common visitor injuries.