— a white church the desert keeps polishing.
“The White Dove of the Desert, nine miles south of Tucson on the San Xavier district of the Tohono O'odham Nation. The present church was finished in 1797 and is still in use as a parish. The lime-washed facade catches first light a full hour before the surrounding mesquite warms up.
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Mission San Xavier del Bac sits on the San Xavier district of the Tohono O'odham Nation, about nine miles south of Tucson off Interstate 19. The mission was founded in 1692 by the Jesuit Eusebio Francisco Kino; the present church, built by the Franciscans between 1783 and 1797, is the oldest intact European-built structure in Arizona. It remains an active Catholic parish serving the Tohono O'odham community. The church is widely regarded as the finest surviving example of Spanish Colonial architecture in the United States.
The walls are fired brick coated in lime plaster and washed white, which is what gives the mission its desert-dove appearance from a distance. The interior is carved and painted in the Mexican Baroque manner: twisted Solomonic columns, polychrome statuary, gilt retablos behind the altar. A conservation campaign begun in 1992 by the Patronato San Xavier brought Italian-trained conservators to stabilize the frescoes and replace earlier concrete patching with breathable lime mortar. Work on the east tower and the interior continues in phases as funding allows.
The mission is open to the public daily, generally 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., with Mass celebrated several times each week. Admission is free; the small museum and gift shop fund continuing conservation. Visitors are asked to dress respectfully and stay quiet during services. The drive from downtown Tucson takes about twenty minutes via Interstate 19, exit 92. The plaza outside hosts Tohono O'odham vendors selling fry bread, popovers, and red chili stew on most days the church is open.