— — a country dyed by time.
“A 160-mile arc of badlands east of the Grand Canyon, the Painted Desert holds some of the most heavily banded Triassic sediments in North America. Iron and clay give it the colour. Wind keeps it bare. The Navajo Nation covers most of it, with the southern end protected inside Petrified Forest National Park.
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The Painted Desert is a roughly 160-mile arc of Chinle Formation badlands in northeastern Arizona, sweeping from near Cameron and the eastern rim of the Grand Canyon southeast through the Little Colorado River basin to the northern end of Petrified Forest National Park. Most of the desert lies inside the Navajo Nation. The protected southern stretch is the easiest to visit, reached from Interstate 40 at Holbrook. Elevations across the basin run from about 4,500 to 6,500 feet.
The colour comes from the Chinle Formation, laid down in the late Triassic about 220 million years ago when this country was a humid floodplain east of a rising mountain arc. Iron oxides give the reds and pinks. Manganese darkens the lavenders and slate-blues. The bands are clay-rich and erode quickly, which keeps the surface raw and exposed. Petrified wood weathered out of the same formation is what gave Petrified Forest its name. The palette shifts hour to hour, and most strongly in the hour before sunset.
The Painted Desert holds very few towns. Cameron, Tuba City, and Holbrook anchor the corners; between them, US 89 and Indian Route 6 cross long stretches without services. The Little Colorado runs intermittently along the western edge. The Hopi mesas rise to the south. Most of the basin sits inside the Navajo Nation, and visitors are expected to stay on marked roads and pullouts. The protected southern stretch in Petrified Forest National Park has the only paved scenic loop. The rest is wind, sandstone, and the railroad line east.