— — the desert that only blooms after dark.
“The organ pipe cactus reaches only this far north and no farther. South of Ajo, against the Mexican line, the Sonoran Desert keeps a stand of them that exists nowhere else in the United States. The flowers open after sundown and close by morning. The lesser long-nosed bat does the pollinating.
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Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument covers about 330,000 acres of Sonoran Desert in Pima County, Arizona, pressed against the Mexico border south of the town of Ajo. It was set aside by Franklin Roosevelt in 1937 to protect the only population of organ pipe cactus growing wild in the United States. UNESCO designated the monument an International Biosphere Reserve in 1976. The Ajo Mountain Drive, a 21-mile graded loop, climbs through bajadas of saguaro, organ pipe, and senita before crossing Diablo Canyon.
The bloom is the calendar here. Organ pipe cactus flowers open in May and June, but only at night: pale pink-white funnels that close before the desert heats. The lesser long-nosed bat, listed in 1988 and delisted in 2018, follows the bloom north from Mexico to feed and pollinate. Summer temperatures cross 100°F by mid-April; winter nights drop near freezing. December through March is the quiet, walkable season, when palo verde greens and the Ajo Mountains hold a thin band of gold at dusk.
The monument sits along thirty miles of the international border, and for decades the southern stretches near Quitobaquito Springs and the Camino del Diablo were among the most remote walking ground in the Lower 48. The Kris Eggle Visitor Center, named for a ranger killed in 2002, anchors the main entrance off Arizona 85. Past Lukeville, the road into Sonoyta, Mexico, leaves the country. The International Dark-Sky Association certified the monument in 2014. At night the saguaros become silhouettes and Orion sits on the Ajos.