— — a forest at the top of the desert.
“A sky island rising out of the Sonoran scrub above Safford, the Pinaleños lift fast and the air changes with the altitude. Spruce-fir at the top, saguaro at the bottom, and a switchback road that climbs through every life zone in between. The endemic red squirrel lives only here. Two observatory domes sit near the summit, quiet on the ridge, watching the same dark sky the Apache called Dzil Nchaa Si'an.
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Mount Graham is the highest peak in the Pinaleño Mountains of southeastern Arizona, rising to 10,724 feet (3,269 m) above the Sulphur Springs Valley. It sits within the Coronado National Forest, west of Safford in Graham County. The Pinaleños hold one of the largest vertical reliefs of any range in the lower forty-eight, climbing roughly 6,000 feet from desert floor to subalpine forest. The Swift Trail Parkway (Arizona 366) is the only road up. To the San Carlos Apache the mountain is Dzil Nchaa Si'an, a place of cultural and spiritual significance.
Sky islands compress climate into geography. The base of the Pinaleños is Sonoran desert; the summit holds Engelmann spruce and corkbark fir more like the forests of southern Colorado than anything else for hundreds of miles. The Mount Graham red squirrel, a subspecies isolated since the last ice age, lives only in that high conifer band. The drive up gains about 7,000 feet of elevation, and the air at the top runs twenty to thirty degrees cooler than the valley floor in summer.
The Swift Trail climbs from near Safford and turns to gravel before the summit; the upper section is closed by snow each year from roughly mid-November to mid-April. Riggs Flat Lake near the top is the highest fishable water in southern Arizona at about 8,600 feet. The Mount Graham International Observatory sits near the summit and runs guided tours by reservation through Eastern Arizona College's Discovery Park Campus in season. There are no services on the mountain past the lower campgrounds, so fuel and water come from town.