— — the green bird the canyon brings back each spring.
“Madera Canyon climbs into the Santa Ritas, one of Arizona's Sky Islands. Each April a few elegant trogons cross from Mexico to nest in the sycamores along the creek. The males are emerald above and rose-red below, with a square copper tail. Birders walk the canyon road at dawn listening for the low croak that gives the bird away. The canyon itself smells of pine and damp leaf.
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Madera Canyon cuts the northwest face of the Santa Rita Mountains in Coronado National Forest, about 40 miles south of Tucson. Trailheads start near 4,800 feet and the Mount Wrightson summit reaches 9,453 feet, making the canyon one of Arizona's defining Sky Islands. The Santa Ritas rise from Sonoran desert grassland at their base through oak woodland into mixed conifer near the top. Madera Creek runs through sycamores and Arizona walnut. The canyon is consistently ranked among the top birding sites in the United States, with more than 250 recorded species.
The elegant trogon (Trogon elegans) is a primarily Mexican species at the very northern edge of its range. A small breeding population, typically 20 to 50 pairs each year, crosses into southern Arizona's Sky Islands from late March through May. Madera Canyon and the Chiricahuas are the two reliable spots. Pairs nest in old woodpecker cavities in sycamores along the creek and remain through August before returning south. The bird's call is a low, hoarse croak repeated in series — easier to hear than to see, since the green back vanishes against the foliage.
The canyon road climbs from Continental, Arizona, to the Mount Wrightson Picnic Area at 5,500 feet. Three small lodges — Santa Rita, Madera Kubo, and the Chuparosa Inn — sit along the lower mile, and a Coronado National Forest day-use fee of about 8 dollars per vehicle covers parking. Spring and late summer are the peak birding windows. The road and lower trails are gentle; the Old Baldy Trail to Mount Wrightson is a serious 10-mile round-trip with 4,000 feet of climb. Mornings before 8 a.m. are when the canyon talks.