— — the harbour the city keeps coming back to.
“A port city on the Sea of Azov, southeast of Donetsk. Founded by Greek settlers from Crimea in the late eighteenth century, it grew around the harbour and the steelworks. The drama theatre stood at the centre of public life. The city has been rebuilt before, and people who left still call it home from wherever they have ended up.
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Mariupol sits on the northern shore of the Sea of Azov, where the Kalmius River meets the harbour, in southeastern Ukraine's Donetsk Oblast. The city was founded in 1778 when Empress Catherine II resettled Greek Orthodox families from Crimea to the steppe coast. Its name honours the Virgin Mary. Pre-war population reached about 430,000. The Azovstal and Illich Steel works defined the southern skyline and the city's economy through the twentieth century. The 2022 siege caused widespread destruction across the centre.
The Sea of Azov is the shallowest sea in the world, averaging about 7 metres deep, fed by the Don and the Kuban and connected to the Black Sea through the narrow Kerch Strait. Mariupol's port handled grain, coal, and steel for more than a century. In summer the water is warm enough to swim by late May, and the long sandbar beaches east of the harbour drew families from across the region. Fishermen still work the inshore waters where conditions allow.
The city has counted its years in waves of arrival and departure. Greek and Italian merchants built the early port. Steel and coke drew workers from across the Russian Empire and then the Soviet Union. The Second World War occupation lasted from October 1941 to September 1943. In 2022 the Russian siege displaced most of the population and left landmark buildings, including the Mariupol Drama Theatre, in ruins. Many residents who left now hold the city in memory and from a distance.