— the city that kept its many languages.
“In southwestern Ukraine, on the right bank of the Prut, in the old crownland of Bukovina. Austrian, Romanian, and Soviet rule each left a layer; the streets still carry the doors and signs. The Residence of the Metropolitans, all red brick and patterned tile, sits at the top of the hill, where the university has held it since 1875. A quieter city than its architecture suggests.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Chernivtsi sits on the right bank of the Prut River in southwestern Ukraine, at the northern foot of the Carpathians, about 40 kilometres from the Romanian border. Population around 265,000. Administrative centre of Chernivtsi Oblast. Historically the capital of Bukovina, ruled by the Habsburgs from 1775, by Romania between 1918 and 1940, then absorbed into Soviet Ukraine in 1940 and again in 1944. Independent Ukrainian since 1991. The old town is laid out around Tsentralna Square, at the top of the long hill above the river.
The Residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metropolitans, designed by Czech architect Josef Hlávka and built between 1864 and 1882, anchors the hill above the old town. UNESCO inscribed it in 2011 for its 19th-century synthesis of Byzantine, Moorish, and Romanesque vocabularies in patterned brick and Viennese roof tile. Since 1875 the complex has housed what is now Yuriy Fedkovych Chernivtsi National University. The seminary church on the grounds holds the original frescoes, restored after Soviet-era damage to the iconostasis.
The city has carried five sovereignties in two hundred years: Austrian until 1918, Romanian until 1940, Soviet, briefly Romanian-Axis again in the war years, then Soviet until 1991. Each layer survives in the street plan, signage, and the Jewish, German, Ukrainian, Romanian, and Polish quarters of the old centre. The annual Meridian Czernowitz literary festival, founded in 2010, gathers writers around the multilingual inheritance of the poet Paul Celan, who was born in the city in 1920. The festival uses the German-era spelling on purpose.