— — a Norman ceiling that the fire forgot to take.
“A cathedral city in Cambridgeshire, an hour north of London by train. The cathedral itself goes back to 1118, with a painted wooden ceiling from around 1230 that survived when the Civil War took almost everything else around it. Catherine of Aragon lies in the north aisle, with a quiet stream of pomegranates left on the stone. Beyond the precinct the city opens onto the Nene and, further out, the long flat light of the Fens. from the studio
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Peterborough sits on the River Nene in eastern Cambridgeshire, about 75 miles north of London and close to the western edge of the Fens. The settlement grew up around the Anglo-Saxon monastery of Medeshamstede, founded in 655, which was destroyed by Vikings and rebuilt as the Norman abbey that became today's cathedral. The wider unitary authority covers around 215,000 people and includes the village of Flag Fen, where a Bronze Age timber causeway has been preserved in waterlogged peat since roughly 1300 BC.
Peterborough Cathedral was begun in 1118 after a fire destroyed the earlier abbey church, and its west front, finished around 1238, carries three enormous Gothic arches unlike any other in England. Inside, the nave still holds its original painted wooden ceiling from about 1230, one of only four medieval painted ceilings of its kind to survive in Europe. Catherine of Aragon was buried here in 1536, and Mary, Queen of Scots, lay in the cathedral from 1587 until her son moved her remains to Westminster.
Trains from London King's Cross reach Peterborough in under fifty minutes, which makes the cathedral one of the easiest Norman buildings in England to see in a day. The cathedral is open to visitors most days with a suggested donation, and the precinct around it, the old monastic close, is free to walk through. The Nene Valley Railway runs heritage steam services from Wansford into the city, and Ferry Meadows Country Park, five minutes west, holds three lakes inside a loop of the river.