— — three peaks the rain keeps to itself.
“An island in the Inner Hebrides with about two hundred people and roughly five thousand red deer. One road runs up the east coast, ending in the rough track to Barnhill, where George Orwell wrote most of Nineteen Eighty-Four. North of that, the tide turns through the Corryvreckan. The Paps hold the weather most days. The ferry from Islay takes ten minutes and feels longer.
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Jura is a long, thin island in the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland, separated from Islay by the narrow Sound of Islay. It is about 30 miles long and shaped by three quartzite mountains, the Paps of Jura, the highest of which, Beinn an Òir, rises to 785 metres. The resident population sits near two hundred, sharing the island with an estimated five thousand red deer. The single-track A846 runs up the populated east coast through the village of Craighouse, where the Jura distillery has been making whisky since 1810.
Population density on Jura is among the lowest in Britain — about one person per square mile. The north of the island has no road at all past Ardlussa; a rough track leads to Barnhill, the remote farmhouse where George Orwell wrote most of Nineteen Eighty-Four between 1946 and 1948. Off the north coast, the Gulf of Corryvreckan runs the third-largest whirlpool in the world between Jura and Scarba. Most of the interior is open deer-stalking estate, walked rather than driven, and held in a quiet that carries the weather.
Jura is reached by the small vehicle ferry from Port Askaig on Islay to Feolin, a crossing of roughly ten minutes operated by Argyll and Bute Council. Islay itself is reached by CalMac ferry from Kennacraig on the Kintyre peninsula, about a two-hour sailing. There is one hotel, in Craighouse, alongside a handful of self-catering cottages and the distillery's visitor centre. Walkers who attempt the Paps in a single day are advised to start early and carry a map; the quartzite scree is unforgiving and the weather turns without notice.