— — the island that smells of peat and salt.
“A 240-square-mile island in Scotland's Inner Hebrides, reached by ferry from Kennacraig on the mainland. Nine working distilleries operate on Islay, more than on any other Scottish island, and the peated single malts produced here carry the island's name across the world. Around three thousand two hundred people live among the lochs, farms and Atlantic-facing beaches. The wind seldom drops for long.
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Islay (pronounced eye-luh) is the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides, about 25 miles long and covering 239 square miles, with a resident population near 3,200 (National Records of Scotland). It lies off Scotland's west coast across the Sound of Jura, reached by Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen or Port Askaig. The island has nine operating malt-whisky distilleries: Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman and Ardnahoe, the highest concentration of working distilleries on any Scottish island (Scotch Whisky Association).
The prevailing southwesterly carries Atlantic air across the island in every season, so the salt sits on lips by mid-morning. Peat smoke from drying malt at the Kildalton distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg) drifts inland on still days and gives the air its other signature. Winter brings around 30,000 Greenland white-fronted and barnacle geese to the Loch Gruinart and Loch Indaal flats, an internationally significant population watched from the RSPB hide at Aoradh (RSPB).
The ferry from Kennacraig runs daily to Port Ellen or Port Askaig, a crossing of just over two hours (Caledonian MacBrayne). Most distilleries take visitors by booking. The Feis Ile festival in late May opens private warehouses and rotates open days through every working distillery on the island. Outside festival week the roads are quiet and most visitors drive a loop taking in Bowmore, the Mull of Oa cliffs and the 8th-century Kildalton High Cross.