— — a cliff the sea keeps to itself.
“A black basalt cliff rising sheer from the South Atlantic, about thirty kilometres southwest of Tristan da Cunha. No harbour, no anchorage, no village, only the smallest flightless bird in the world, the Inaccessible Island rail, walking the tussock above two thousand feet of vertical stone. The Tristanians come once a year for driftwood. The cliffs do most of the talking.
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Inaccessible Island lies in the South Atlantic at roughly 37°18′S, the second-largest of the Tristan da Cunha group and part of the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha. It covers about fourteen square kilometres, an eroded volcano whose flanks rise as basalt cliffs three hundred metres straight from the sea. The plateau on top reaches 511 metres at Swale's Fell. Together with Gough Island, it forms a UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed in 1995 and extended in 2004 for its seabird colonies and endemic land birds.
No one lives on Inaccessible Island, and no one ever has lived there permanently. The Tristan da Cunha community visits once or twice a year by longboat to gather driftwood and seabirds' eggs, weather permitting. There is no airstrip and no jetty; landings are made by climbing wet basalt onto a narrow shingle beach at Salt Beach. The island is held under the Tristan Conservation Ordinance, which limits human presence to short scientific or community visits. For most of the year the only voices are seabirds and the swell.
The island runs on a seabird calendar. Yellow-nosed albatrosses return in August to nest on the upper slopes; sooty albatrosses follow in September. Great shearwaters arrive in millions in October, and Tristan thrushes raise chicks in the tussock through December. The Inaccessible Island rail, endemic to these slopes and the smallest flightless bird on earth at about thirty-five grams, breeds in summer and stays year. By April the cliffs empty out and the wind takes back the island for the autumn.