— — a flat island the Atlantic forgot to finish.
“A low Hebridean island lashed by two causeways to the Uists on either side, with one small hill, a long machair coast, and more freshwater lochans than houses. The wind comes off the Atlantic clean. The summer light holds late, the corncrakes still call from the machair in June, and Prince Charles Edward Stuart left for Skye from a beach on the western shore in 1746.
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Benbecula, in Scottish Gaelic Beinn na Faoghla, is a low island in the Outer Hebrides between North Uist and South Uist. It covers about 82 square kilometres and held a 2011 population of 1,283, most of it concentrated in the village of Balivanich on the north-west coast. Causeways carrying the A865 reach North Uist over the North Ford and South Uist across the South Ford. The island's highest point, Rueval, rises only to 124 metres above the surrounding peatland.
The western coast of Benbecula is one long sweep of machair, the wind-blown shell-sand grassland that fringes the Hebrides. The Atlantic comes in unbroken from the west, so the air on the strand carries salt and the faint iodine of kelp wrack. Average wind speed at Balivanich exceeds 14 knots; the RAF kept a meteorological station here for that reason. In June the corncrake still calls from the long machair grass, one of its last European strongholds, audible from the road after dark.
Benbecula sits in the line of Hebridean islands that sheltered Prince Charles Edward Stuart after Culloden. With Flora MacDonald, he crossed from Rossinish on the eastern shore to Skye on 28 June 1746, the journey that fixed the Skye Boat Song in memory. The island today carries the same low quiet: small Catholic and Presbyterian churches, a handful of crofts, a single shop in Creagorry. Loganair flies into Balivanich from Glasgow and Stornoway, and the CalMac ferry from Uig on Skye lands at Lochmaddy a half-hour north.