— — a city the Mongols left as a warning.
“A spread of bleached brick ruins on the eastern edge of the Karakum, an hour east of the town of Mary, in what is now Turkmenistan. Sultan Sanjar's blue-tiled tomb still stands above the Seljuk plain where his capital once held perhaps half a million people. The old canals are dry. Wind carries the sand across what is left.
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Merv lies in the oasis of the Murghab River delta on the eastern edge of the Karakum Desert, in modern Mary Province, Turkmenistan, about thirty kilometres east of the regional capital Mary. The site preserves five walled cities built and abandoned in succession from the sixth century BCE through the eighteenth: Erk Kala, Gyaur Kala, Sultan Kala, Abdullah Khan Kala, and Bairam Ali Khan Kala. UNESCO inscribed the State Historical and Cultural Park 'Ancient Merv' on the World Heritage List in 1999.
The Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, built around 1157 for the last great Seljuk ruler, rises thirty-eight metres above the Sultan Kala plain with a double brick dome once finished in turquoise tile. The Greater and Lesser Kyz Kalas, fortified mud-brick keeps with corrugated outer walls, date to the seventh century. The Mongol army of Tolui, son of Genghis Khan, sacked the city in 1221; contemporary chroniclers put the dead in the hundreds of thousands, and the irrigation canals were never rebuilt.
Merv is reached from Mary, the provincial capital, which has a domestic airport with daily flights from Ashgabat and a station on the Trans-Caspian railway. The archaeological park covers roughly twelve square kilometres and is open daily without timed entry; a local driver and a guide are necessary because the monuments stand kilometres apart across open desert. Foreign visitors require a Turkmenistan visa with an invitation letter, arranged in advance through a registered tour operator.