— a sea where a sea shouldn't be.
“The largest lake in Turkey, held a mile above sea level on the Anatolian plateau. The water is soda, alkaline enough that locals once used it for laundry. From the shore at Gevaş the silhouette of Akdamar Island carries a tenth-century Armenian church, its red tuff catching the late light long after the town behind it has gone blue.
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Lake Van sits at about 1,640 metres on the high plateau of eastern Anatolia, ringed by the dormant cones of Süphan and Nemrut. It is the largest lake in Turkey by area and the largest soda lake on Earth, with no natural outlet. The city of Van, on the eastern shore, has held this ground since the Urartian kingdom established its capital Tushpa here in the ninth century BC. The lake covers roughly 3,755 square kilometres.
The water is highly alkaline, with a pH near 9.8 and a salinity that supports only one fish, the pearl mullet, *Alburnus tarichi*, which migrates each spring into the freshwater streams to spawn. Mineral content gives the lake its turquoise cast and a strange clarity at depth. Microbialites discovered along the floor in the 1990s rise more than forty metres from the bed, among the largest freshwater carbonate structures known.
On Akdamar Island, two kilometres off the southern shore, the Cathedral of the Holy Cross was built between 915 and 921 by the architect-monk Manuel for King Gagik I of Vaspurakan. Its red tuff walls carry one of the most complete cycles of Armenian relief sculpture surviving from the medieval period: scenes from Genesis, Jonah, David and Goliath cut directly into the stone. The site reopened for an annual liturgy in 2010 after restoration.