— — the green that only grows where it rains.
“Turkey's tea province, where the Kaçkar Mountains lean into the Black Sea and the rain almost never stops. Steep terraces of çay climb the slopes above the town. In Ayder, up the valley, the wood houses sit in fog half the year. People here drink the tea they pick. Nobody hurries the kettle.
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Rize sits on Turkey's eastern Black Sea coast, the seat of Rize Province and the centre of the country's tea industry. The province produces around two-thirds of Turkey's çay on terraced hillsides that climb from sea level to the foothills of the Kaçkar range. The city itself, population near 150,000, faces the water beneath green ridges that catch the heaviest rainfall in Turkey, over 2,200 millimetres in some years. The Kaçkar peaks rise above 3,900 metres south of town, shaping the wet maritime climate that gives Rize its colour.
Rize is the wettest province in Turkey. The Black Sea pushes warm moist air up the slopes of the Kaçkars, and the rain falls in long quiet sheets through most of the year. The air smells of wet hazel and tea leaf and woodsmoke from the village ovens along the Fırtına Valley. Higher up at Ayder Plateau, around 1,350 metres, the fog comes in by mid-afternoon and stays. The temperate rainforest here, part of the Euxine-Colchic broadleaf forest ecoregion, holds species that exist almost nowhere else in the country.
The provincial capital is reached by road from Trabzon along the Black Sea highway, about eighty kilometres west. Trabzon Airport is the nearest air link. The tea harvest runs May through October, with three pickings on most plots, and the Çaykur factories give visitors a sense of the scale. Up the Fırtına Valley, the historic Ottoman stone bridges, the Zilkale fortress at around 1,500 metres, and the Ayder hot springs anchor a two-day route. The wettest months are autumn; June and July are the most reliable for clear days.