— — stone heads watching the sun come up.
“The summit tomb of a Commagene king, 2,134 metres up in the Anti-Taurus range. Colossal limestone heads — Zeus, Apollo, Heracles, a king who placed himself among them — sit toppled in the gravel where earthquakes left them centuries ago. The road from Kahta climbs through villages that grew up after the mountain was forgotten and then remembered again. Most people come for sunrise, and don't say much.
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Mount Nemrut rises to 2,134 metres in Adıyaman Province, in the Anti-Taurus mountains of southeastern Turkey. The summit holds the tomb-sanctuary of Antiochus I Theos of Commagene, who reigned over a small Hellenistic-Persian kingdom from roughly 70 to 36 BC. East and west terraces flank a conical tumulus of crushed rock, with colossal seated figures of Greek and Persian gods placed alongside the king. The site was inscribed by UNESCO in 1987 and is reached by road from Kâhta or Malatya.
The figures were carved from local limestone in five blocks each: a seated body on a throne and a separately worked head. Earthquakes over two millennia toppled the heads, which now rest on the gravel in front of the bodies, faces turned out toward the valley. Inscriptions identify them as Zeus-Oromasdes, Apollo-Mithras, Heracles-Artagnes, the goddess Commagene, and the king himself. Lions and eagles flank the line. The tumulus itself, about 50 metres tall, has never been excavated; Antiochus's tomb has not been opened.
The site is famous for sunrise on the east terrace and sunset on the west. The summit road is generally open from late April or May through October; heavy snow closes the upper switchbacks in winter. Visitors usually drive part of the way and walk the final stretch in the dark, arriving at the heads as the light begins to find them. The Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism manages access through Nemrut Dağı National Park, and a small fee applies at the gate.