— — the mountain the city watches every morning.
“An old caravan city under the snow line of Erciyes, the volcano that has watched it since long before the Seljuks built their walls. Kayseri cures pastırma in the autumn wind and folds mantı by the thousand. The dome of the Great Mosque keeps the centre. The mountain keeps everything else.
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Kayseri sits on a high plain in central Anatolia at roughly 1,054 metres, in the shadow of Mount Erciyes, a 3,917-metre stratovolcano. The city, ancient Caesarea of Cappadocia, named for the Roman emperor, has been a regional capital for more than two thousand years. Population today is about 1.4 million. It rose to prominence under the Anatolian Seljuks in the thirteenth century, and its medieval core still holds mosques, tombs, and madrasas from that period.
The Seljuk century left Kayseri an open-air museum of dark volcanic masonry. The Hunat Hatun Complex (1238), built for a wife of Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad, anchors the old centre. The Döner Kümbet, a twelve-sided cylindrical tomb from around 1276, sits a short walk south. The Sahabiye Medrese (1267) holds a courtyard portal carved with the geometric vocabulary that travelled across the Seljuk world. The local basalt, quarried from Erciyes, gives the buildings their weathered, dark surface.
Two seasons shape Kayseri. In autumn the dry plateau wind cures pastırma, the air-dried spiced beef the city has been making since at least the Byzantine period; whole districts hang racks of beef through October and November. In winter the Erciyes ski runs open on the volcano's flanks from December into April, drawing skiers from across Anatolia. Mantı, small lamb dumplings folded by the thousand, are made throughout the year in the home kitchens that built Kayseri's name in Turkish cuisine.