— — the side of the city the ferries come home to.
“The big neighborhood on Istanbul's Asian shore, across the Bosphorus from Karaköy. Ferries run all day, settle at the iskele, and unload a flow of commuters into the fish market and tea gardens. Kadıköy is the older settlement — Greek Khalkedōn was here before Byzantium — but it lives now as a younger city: bookshops on Bahariye, gramophone repair on a side street, the Moda promenade running along the Marmara.
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Kadıköy is a district of Istanbul on the Anatolian shore of the Bosphorus, opposite the European-side neighborhoods of Karaköy and Eminönü. It sits where the strait opens into the Sea of Marmara. The district records around 480,000 residents and forms one of the densest residential and commercial centres on the Asian side. The settlement is older than the city across the water: Megarian Greeks founded Chalcedon here around 685 BCE, seventeen years before they founded Byzantium on the opposite shore.
The Bosphorus runs along the western edge of the district and gives Kadıköy its rhythm. The city's IDO and Şehir Hatları ferries connect the iskele to Eminönü, Karaköy, and Beşiktaş in fifteen to twenty-five minutes, running from early morning until late at night. South of the pier, the Moda promenade curves out into the Sea of Marmara and runs roughly two kilometres along a low seawall, popular for evening walks. The light shifts across the strait through the day, against the Süleymaniye and Hagia Sophia skyline on the far bank.
Most visitors arrive by ferry from Eminönü, Karaköy, or Beşiktaş; the iskele drops you out into the open square at Rıhtım. From there, the Kadıköy fish market runs east through Güneşli Bahçe and Serasker streets, then the meeting point at Altıyol with the bronze bull statue, then the bookshops and theatres of Bahariye Avenue. The Süreyya Opera House sits at the head of Bahariye and runs a full season of opera and ballet. South, the Moda neighborhood rolls down toward the promenade and the seawall.