— — the island that taught the world to play steel.
“The southern of the two islands of Trinidad and Tobago, eleven kilometres off Venezuela and a long way from postcard-Caribbean. Port of Spain runs on Carnival, on calypso and soca, on the steelpan that was invented here in the 1930s from discarded oil drums. The interior is rainforest; the Pitch Lake at La Brea is the largest natural asphalt deposit on earth. The light is wet and loud.
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Trinidad is the larger and southern of the two main islands of the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago, lying about eleven kilometres off the Paria Peninsula of Venezuela. The island covers roughly 4,800 square kilometres and holds a population near 1.3 million, most of it concentrated along the western corridor between Port of Spain, the capital, and the industrial south around San Fernando. Geologically Trinidad is an extension of the South American mainland rather than a Caribbean volcanic arc, which is why it has South American fauna and freshwater rivers.
Carnival is the year's spine. Held the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, the two-day street festival traces back to French planter masquerades of the eighteenth century and the post-emancipation Canboulay processions of the freed African population. The modern form fuses calypso, soca, mas costume bands, and the steelpan orchestras called steelbands, whose national competition Panorama runs in the weeks before. The Trinidad Carnival is widely cited as the template for the diaspora carnivals that followed in London Notting Hill and Toronto Caribana.
Inland, the Northern Range climbs to roughly 940 metres at El Cerro del Aripo and holds dense tropical rainforest along its windward slope. The Asa Wright Nature Centre, a former cocoa-coffee estate above Arima, has run as a non-profit field station since 1967 and records over 170 bird species, including the oilbirds that nest in Dunston Cave. Down on the southwest coast, the Pitch Lake at La Brea is the largest natural asphalt deposit on earth, covering about forty hectares, and has been mined steadily since Sir Walter Raleigh caulked his ships there in 1595.