— — the gold that does not need the sun.
“The royal chapel inside the Grand Palace, on the east bank of the Chao Phraya. No monks live here; the temple exists to hold one small jade figure on a high gilded throne. The grounds are mirrored tile and lacquer and the soft shuffle of bare feet on warm stone. Three times a year the king changes the figure's robes himself. The line for the door moves slowly and quietly, the way lines move in places people came a long way to see.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Wat Phra Kaew sits inside the walls of the Grand Palace in the Phra Nakhon district of Bangkok, on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. King Rama I founded the temple in 1782 as the royal chapel of the new Chakri dynasty, and it has never housed resident monks. Its central treasure is the Phra Kaew Morakot, a 66-centimetre figure carved from a single block of jade and seated on a gilded throne inside the ordination hall. The temple shares its enclosed courtyards with murals from the Ramakien, the Thai retelling of the Ramayana, painted along the cloister walls.
The complex opens daily from 8:30 to 15:30, and the dress code is enforced at the gate: shoulders covered, no shorts, no sandals without a back strap. A loan counter near the entrance hands out wrap skirts and long-sleeved shirts for visitors who arrive unprepared. The single ticket also admits the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles within the palace walls. Photography is permitted in the outer courtyards but not inside the ordination hall, where the jade figure is visible from a roped line about ten metres back. Mornings before nine are the calmest hour.
Three times a year the reigning monarch personally changes the robes of the Emerald Buddha in a ceremony that has continued since 1784. The garment shifts with the Thai seasons: a gold mesh for the hot season in March, a monastic robe of gold-flecked enamel for the rainy season in July, and a solid gold shawl for the cool season in November. The two unworn robes rest in glass cases in the Pavilion of Regalia and Royal Decorations nearby. The ritual is one of the few moments of the Thai royal calendar in which the king performs an act of dressing rather than being dressed.