— — the city most travellers cross before they realise they are in it.
“The special municipality on Taiwan's north-western coastal plain, west of Taipei across the Linkou ridge. For most international visitors it is the airport, the rail link, the first hour on the island. For Taiwan it is something else — a Hakka-rooted city of more than two million, the country's industrial spine, and the home of Cihu, where Chiang Kai-shek's casket has rested since 1975. The old camphor-trade road through Daxi still runs past the temple at Furen Gong, and the reservoirs of the Dahan River sit green in the foothills behind.
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Taoyuan is a special municipality on the north-western coastal plain of Taiwan, immediately south-west of Taipei and New Taipei. It was upgraded from county status to a directly governed municipality on 25 December 2014 and now counts a population of over 2.3 million across twelve districts. The municipality is home to Taoyuan International Airport, the principal international gateway to Taiwan, and is connected to Taipei by the Taoyuan Metro Airport MRT, which opened in 2017. The Hakka population is among the largest of any city on the island.
The old town of Daxi, on the Dahan River in eastern Taoyuan, preserves a row of early-twentieth-century shophouse façades along Heping Old Street, a legacy of the camphor and tea trade that moved through the river port under Japanese rule. Upstream, the Cihu mausoleum complex holds the resting casket of Chiang Kai-shek, placed there in 1975 in anticipation of an eventual return to the mainland that never came. The surrounding sculpture park gathers more than two hundred Chiang statues removed from public squares across Taiwan after democratisation.
Most international arrivals reach Taoyuan first at the airport in Dayuan District, from which the Airport MRT runs to Taipei Main Station in about thirty-five minutes on the express service. Travellers staying in the municipality itself usually base in Taoyuan or Zhongli districts and day-trip to Daxi Old Street, the Cihu complex, and Shimen Reservoir in the foothills. The Hakka cultural belt around Longtan and Yangmei is worth a separate visit, especially during the Tung Blossom Festival in late April and early May.