— — the old capital, the temple city, the kitchen of the island.
“The oldest city on Taiwan, set on the southwest coast where the Dutch built their fort in 1624 and Koxinga took it back forty years later. Temples stand on almost every block of the old centre, more than a thousand by some counts. The food is the country's reference standard: beef soup at dawn, danzai noodles at noon, shaved ice at three.
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Tainan sits on Taiwan's southwest coast on the alluvial plain facing the Taiwan Strait, about 350 kilometres south of Taipei. It is the oldest city on the island, founded as a Dutch trading post called Fort Zeelandia in 1624 and taken by the Ming loyalist Koxinga in 1662. Tainan served as Taiwan's capital under Qing rule until 1885. The municipality covers about 2,200 square kilometres and holds a population of roughly 1.85 million. The old centre, anchored by the Confucius Temple of 1665, sits east of the rebuilt Anping district on the coast.
Anping Old Fort, on the western edge of the city, occupies the site of the Dutch East India Company's Fort Zeelandia, founded in 1624. A surviving brick outer wall, sections of which still show the company's masonry, anchors the modern reconstruction. The Confucius Temple, established in 1665, is the oldest in Taiwan and remains the centre of the autumn rites each September. Chihkan Tower, built on the Dutch Fort Provintia of 1653, was rebuilt as a Chinese-style pavilion under the Qing. Tainan counts more than a thousand registered temples, a density unmatched on the island.
Tainan's year is set by temple festivals more than by the secular calendar. The Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival, held on the fifteenth night of the Lunar New Year, fires hundreds of thousands of rockets into the crowd around the Wumiao Temple. The autumn rites at the Confucius Temple, held on the Saturday closest to 28 September, mark Confucius's traditional birthday and Teacher's Day. Mazu pilgrimages, processions of the sea goddess's palanquin, move through the streets in spring. The food calendar is its own clock: beef soup at dawn, danzai noodles at noon, milkfish in the evening.