— — the harbour city that learned to glow back.
“On Taiwan's southwestern coast, Kaohsiung holds the island's largest port and its busiest container terminals, with the Love River cutting north through downtown to the sea. Lotus Pond rims the northern district with painted shrines and the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. After dark the cargo cranes light up along with the 85 Sky Tower, and the waterfront promenade fills with night-market traffic.
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Kaohsiung lies on the southwestern coast of Taiwan, facing the Taiwan Strait, and is the island's third-largest city with about 2.7 million residents across 38 districts. The Port of Kaohsiung, sheltered behind the long Cijin sandbar, is the island's largest container port and ranks among the world's top twenty by throughput. Originally a small fishing settlement called Takao under Hoklo and Japanese rule, the city was renamed Kaohsiung in 1920 and merged with surrounding Kaohsiung County in 2010 to become a special municipality covering 2,952 square kilometres.
The Love River, called Ai-he by locals, runs about 12 kilometres from Niaosong District through downtown Kaohsiung to Kaohsiung Harbor. Heavily polluted by the 1970s, it was cleaned up over two decades of dredging and sewer rebuilding; gondola-style cruise boats now run after dark beneath the lighted bridges. The harbour itself, sheltered by the Cijin sandbar that stretches 11 kilometres south, handles roughly 10 million TEU of container traffic a year and remains the heart of the city's working waterfront.
At Lotus Pond in Zuoying, the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas, finished in 1976, rise from the water on a short causeway; visitors enter through the dragon's mouth and exit through the tiger's, a passage said to turn bad luck into good. Nearby, the National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts at Weiwuying, opened in 2018 and designed by Dutch firm Mecanoo, is the largest performing arts centre under a single roof in the world, sheltering five venues beneath a 35,000-square-metre wave-form canopy.