— — the city the river keeps coming back to.
“A city of about a million on the Orontes River, halfway between Damascus and Aleppo on the road north. Homs holds the tomb of the seventh-century general Khalid ibn al-Walid inside the Ottoman-revival mosque that carries his name. The old quarter took the heaviest damage in the long siege that ended in 2014, and is being rebuilt stone by stone.
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Homs sits on the eastern bank of the Orontes River in western Syria, about 162 kilometres north of Damascus and 193 kilometres south of Aleppo. Before the civil war the city was the country's third-largest, with roughly 1.2 million residents, and a regional centre for oil refining and agriculture. The Homs Gap, a low corridor between the Anti-Lebanon range and the Jabal an-Nusayriyah, has carried trade between the coast and the interior since antiquity and gives the city its strategic weight in the geography of the Levant.
The Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque rises above the Old City with a black-and-white striped Ottoman-revival facade, completed in 1908 under Sultan Abdul Hamid II. The mosque holds the tomb of the seventh-century general who led the early Islamic conquest of the Levant. Its central dome and twin minarets took shell damage during the 2013 siege and have since been restored. Forty kilometres west, the Crusader castle of Krak des Chevaliers crowns its basalt hill, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2006.
The 2011 to 2014 siege of the Old City emptied entire quarters; reconstruction work has been incremental since the army regained control in May 2014. UNESCO and Syrian heritage teams catalogued damage to the Khalid mosque, the Church of Saint Mary of the Holy Belt, and the covered souq. The Church of Saint Mary, a Greek Orthodox foundation, traces its building stones to the fourth century and reopened for services in 2014 after structural repairs. Footfall in the rebuilt quarters remains thin compared with pre-war years.