— — the long groan of wood turning water uphill.
“The norias of Hama have turned for centuries on the Orontes, lifting river water into stone aqueducts that once watered the gardens of the old city. The largest, al-Muhammadiyah, dates from the fourteenth century and still moans on its axle when the river runs high. Seventeen wheels remain. Locals come out to listen.
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Hama sits on the Orontes River in west-central Syria, roughly 213 km north of Damascus and 146 km south of Aleppo. The modern city wraps around a tell first occupied in the Neolithic and named in Egyptian and biblical records as Hamath. Population is about 854,000. The Orontes flows north through Hama, one of few Levantine rivers running northward, before crossing into Turkey near Antakya. The old quarter clusters along the riverbanks where the wooden norias still turn.
Seventeen wooden waterwheels, the norias, survive along the Orontes inside the city. The largest, al-Muhammadiyah, was built in 1361 and stands about twenty metres across. They lifted river water into stone aqueducts that fed mosques, gardens, and bathhouses through the Ayyubid and Mamluk periods. The wheels are framed in poplar and oak; their bearings groan audibly when wet. UNESCO lists the norias on Syria's tentative World Heritage register.
Hama's annual rhythm follows the river. Spring melt from the Anti-Lebanon mountains sends the Orontes high through March and April; the norias run loudest then. By August the flow drops and several wheels stand still. Reconstruction in the central districts continued through the 2000s after the 1982 events. Friday afternoons remain the quietest hours along the river walk, where families gather under the plane trees near the Azem Palace.