— — the only island Syria keeps.
“A walled fishing island in the Mediterranean, three kilometres off Tartus, and the only inhabited island Syria has. Phoenician stones still hold the harbour wall. Wooden boats are shaped by hand on the shore the way they have been for centuries. Lanes barely wide enough for two people, salt on every wall, and the call to prayer carrying across the water from the mainland.
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Arwad is a small island in the eastern Mediterranean, about three kilometres off the coast at Tartus, in the Tartus Governorate of Syria. It measures roughly 800 by 500 metres and is the only inhabited island in the country. Settled by Phoenicians in the second millennium BCE and known in the Hebrew Bible as Arvad, it later held out until 1302 as the last Crusader position in the Levant. A short ferry runs from Tartus harbour. The resident population is around 4,000, working mainly in fishing and traditional wooden boatbuilding.
The shoreline is ringed by stones older than most of Europe's standing churches. Sections of the Phoenician sea wall, cut from local sandstone and set without mortar, still take the swell on the western side. Above them, a small Ayyubid citadel, later patched by Crusaders and Mamluks, sits on the highest point of the island. The lanes inland are paved in worn limestone, polished by centuries of bare feet. The houses lean into each other for shade, their plaster the colour of bleached bone, their doors painted Mediterranean blue.
The sea around Arwad is shallow and turquoise close in, deepening fast to the open Mediterranean. Fishing remains the principal trade, with small wooden boats setting out at dawn for sardine, grouper, and the seasonal swordfish run. Boatbuilders on the eastern shore still shape hulls from Lebanese cedar and Syrian poplar, working by eye rather than blueprint. Children swim from the harbour wall in summer. The water is at its clearest from June through September; winter storms close the ferry from Tartus for days at a time when the southwester comes up hard.