— — stone Buddhas the rain hasn't worn out yet.
“The second of Sri Lanka's medieval capitals, after Anuradhapura fell. Polonnaruwa was the seat of the Sinhala kings from the eleventh through the thirteenth centuries; what remains is a walled archaeological park of brick stupas, a circular Vatadage, and the four colossal Buddhas at Gal Vihara, cut directly from a single granite outcrop. Bicycles are the way through. The dry-zone heat is real.
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Polonnaruwa lies in the North Central Province of Sri Lanka, about 215 kilometres northeast of Colombo, on the eastern edge of the dry zone. It became the royal capital in 1070 under Vijayabahu I and reached its height under Parakramabahu I, who reigned from 1153 to 1186. The city was abandoned in the thirteenth century after repeated South Indian raids and the shift of power south. The archaeological park, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, covers the inner royal city and the religious quarter to its north.
The four images at Gal Vihara (a seated Buddha, a smaller seated figure inside a niche, a standing figure, and a 14-metre reclining Buddha) were carved from a single horizontal band of grey granite in the twelfth century, almost certainly during Parakramabahu's reign. The Vatadage, a circular relic house, surrounds a small stupa with four seated Buddhas facing the cardinal directions. The Royal Palace of Parakramabahu, written sources record at seven storeys, now stands as a three-storey shell of brick. The lotus-shaped Nelum Pokuna bath survives intact.
The archaeological park is reached from the town of Polonnaruwa, which has a railway station on the Batticaloa line and is about five hours by road from Colombo. A single ticket, currently 30 US dollars for non-Sri Lankan visitors, covers the inner park, the Quadrangle, and Gal Vihara to the north. Most visitors hire a bicycle in town and ride the loop in three to four hours, starting early to avoid the midday heat. Shoes and head-covering must come off before climbing to the Gal Vihara statues.