— — a ship of slate sailing the meseta.
“A stone fortress at the western end of Segovia's old town, set on a narrow crag where the Eresma and Clamores rivers meet. The slate roofs run like the sails of a ship pointed west across the meseta. Inside, the rooms hold the Mudéjar ceilings of a Castilian royal residence; outside, the towers do the thing that put this castle into a hundred fairy-tale drawings.
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The Royal Alcázar of Segovia stands on a rocky spur at the western edge of the old town, at the confluence of the Eresma and Clamores rivers, about ninety kilometres northwest of Madrid. Its earliest stone construction dates to the twelfth century on the footprint of a Roman fort and an Almohad-period fortification. The Alcázar served as a royal residence of the Castilian kings, the site of Isabella I's proclamation as queen in 1474, and later a state prison and a royal artillery academy. It sits at about 1,000 metres of elevation.
The fortress takes its dramatic profile from the narrowness of its rock: a long, ship-like footprint with the Tower of Juan II, finished in the fifteenth century, at the prow and the Tower of the Homage at the stern. The conical slate roofs were added in the sixteenth century under Philip II by craftsmen from Flanders and the German lands, giving the castle its northern silhouette. After a fire in 1862 the interiors were rebuilt with their Mudéjar coffered ceilings, the artesonados that are the building's signature inside.
The Alcázar is open daily except on a handful of public holidays, with extended summer hours. A general ticket covers the palace rooms; the Tower of Juan II is sold as a separate climb of 152 steps to the highest viewpoint over the meseta. The site is run by the Patronato del Alcázar de Segovia, a public trust. From the city, the approach down Calle Daoíz frames the towers against the sky; from the river path below the walls, the whole silhouette appears at once.