— — a Sunday the city steps into.
“Sunday mornings the park belongs to the city. Rowers cross the Estanque under the statue of Alfonso XII while families circle the Crystal Palace and the rose garden. The plane trees shade the long allées laid out for the Habsburg court, and a busker's guitar carries from the parterre. The Prado is a five-minute walk west, but most Madrileños come here first.
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Parque del Buen Retiro covers about 125 hectares on the eastern edge of central Madrid, bordered by the Calle de Alfonso XII to the west and the Plaza de la Independencia to the north. Originally laid out in the 1630s as the gardens of the Buen Retiro royal palace for Felipe IV, the park passed to the city of Madrid and opened to the public in 1868. Since 2021 it has formed part of the UNESCO World Heritage site Paseo del Prado and Buen Retiro, recognised as a landscape of arts and sciences.
The park is open from six in the morning to midnight in summer, closing earlier in winter. Entry is free. The main entrances are at the Puerta de Alcalá, the Puerta de España on the Plaza de la Independencia, and the Atocha gate to the south. The Palacio de Cristal, built in 1887 for the Philippine Exposition, now hosts rotating exhibitions of the Reina Sofía. Rowboats on the Estanque rent for about ten euros for forty-five minutes, weather permitting.
The plane trees and chestnuts along the Paseo de Coches turn copper from late October through November, and the rose garden, the Rosaleda, peaks in May and again in early autumn. Summer afternoons cross 35 degrees Celsius and the shaded benches along the lake fill by noon; Madrileños come at sunset instead. Winter brings a thinner crowd and bare avenues, but the Palacio de Cristal lights the southwest end of the park into early evening, and the Estanque often holds a thin morning ice.