— the cathedral the pilgrims walk a thousand miles to reach.
“The cathedral that ends the walk. Pilgrims arrive in the Plaza del Obradoiro footsore and quiet, having come on foot from the Pyrenees or from Lisbon or from somewhere farther. The Baroque towers face west; the Romanesque bones behind them are nine hundred years old. On feast days the great censer swings the length of the transept, and the smell of frankincense holds for hours.
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The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela stands at the Plaza del Obradoiro in the old quarter of Santiago, the capital of Galicia in northwestern Spain. Construction began in 1075 under Bishop Diego Peláez, and the main Romanesque body was consecrated in 1211. The Baroque Obradoiro facade was added by Fernando de Casas y Novoa between 1738 and 1750. The cathedral is the traditional terminus of the Camino de Santiago, and the apostle James the Greater is venerated in the crypt beneath the high altar.
The granite is local, quarried from the hills around Santiago and worked by Galician stonemasons across more than six centuries. The Romanesque Pórtico da Gloria, carved by Master Mateo and completed in 1188, sits behind the later Baroque screen and counts as one of the great works of medieval European sculpture. Twenty-four elders of the Apocalypse tune their instruments above the central column. The stone is dark with the rain that comes off the Atlantic, and the towers wear lichen the colour of bronze.
The cathedral is open daily and entry to the nave is free. The Pilgrim's Mass is held at noon and at seven-thirty in the evening; the Botafumeiro, the great silver-plated censer weighing about 53 kilograms, is swung on principal feast days and on certain Fridays at the noon Mass. The Pórtico da Gloria and the museum require a separate ticket. Pilgrims who have walked the last hundred kilometres of the Camino can collect the Compostela certificate at the Pilgrim's Reception Office on Rúa Carretas.