— — a city the architects could not finish.
“Barcelona sits between the Collserola hills and the Mediterranean, a city the Romans laid out and the modernistas reimagined. The Sagrada Família has been under construction since 1882 and the cranes are still part of the skyline. The Gothic Quarter holds narrow stone streets older than most countries. The light along Passeig de Gràcia at dusk is what brought Gaudí to it.
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Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia and the second-largest city in Spain, with about 1.6 million residents in the municipality and around 5.7 million in the metropolitan area. The city sits on the Mediterranean coast between the Llobregat and Besòs rivers, hemmed inland by the Serra de Collserola. Roman Barcino was founded in the first century BCE, on the small hill now called Mont Tàber under the Gothic Quarter. The modern city took its grid from Ildefons Cerdà's 1859 Eixample plan.
Antoni Gaudí designed seven of the city's defining buildings between 1883 and his death in 1926, and the Sagrada Família was his lifelong project. Construction began in 1882 under Francisco de Paula del Villar; Gaudí took over a year later and worked on it for forty-three years. The basilica is expected to be structurally complete by the 2030s. Park Güell, Casa Batlló, and Casa Milà sit within walking distance of one another in the Eixample. Seven of his works hold UNESCO World Heritage status.
Barcelona's light is Mediterranean and clear most of the year, sharpened by the white limestone facades along the Eixample and softened by the plane trees of La Rambla. The city averages around 2,520 hours of sunshine annually. The best hour for the Sagrada Família is the late afternoon, when the western rose window pours red and orange across the nave; for Park Güell, the early morning before the harbour haze rises. Sunset along Passeig de Gràcia turns the modernista facades from cream to gold to copper in about twenty minutes.