— — the city the stew is named after.
“A city north of Seoul, at the foot of Suraksan, on the old road that runs up toward the DMZ. After the Korean War, US Army bases sat at its edges for nearly seventy years; Camp Red Cloud closed in 2018. The food that came out of those years, budae jjigae or army-base stew, is still cooked best here, on the budae-jjigae street near the old market.
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Uijeongbu is a city in northern Gyeonggi Province, about 20 km north of central Seoul and roughly 30 km south of the Demilitarized Zone. The population is around 460,000. The city sits in a basin between Suraksan to the south and Dobongsan to the west, both granite peaks that rise above 600 metres. Subway Line 1 runs north from Seoul Station to Uijeongbu in just over an hour. The Jungnang Stream flows south through the city into the Han River below the capital.
Suraksan rises 638 metres above the southern edge of the city, its granite ridges holding mist most autumn mornings until the sun clears the ridge around nine. Dobongsan, the western wall of the basin, tops 740 metres and is the most-climbed peak in the Seoul region. Both ranges sit within the broader Bukhansan National Park system. In late October the slopes turn through the Korean autumn palette: flame maple, gold ginkgo, copper oak. Trail buses run direct from Uijeongbu Station to the main trailheads on weekend mornings.
The Uijeongbu budae-jjigae street near Uijeongbu Jeil Market gathers about twenty restaurants serving the dish in its original form: spam, frankfurter, kimchi, gochujang, instant noodles, and broth, cooked at the table over a portable burner. The most-cited founding restaurant, Odeng Sikdang, has operated since 1960 and traces the dish to the years just after the war. The Uijeongbu Music Theatre Festival runs each autumn at the Uijeongbu Arts Center, and the former Camp Red Cloud site is being converted into a public park and cultural campus.