— — the kingdom that buried its kings in grass.
“The old Silla capital, in the southeast of South Korea, where royal tombs rise as grass hills inside the city and Bulguksa Temple keeps watch from the slope of Mount Toham. The Silla kingdom ruled here for nearly a thousand years, ending in 935 AD. The streets curve around what an empire left behind, and the museums fill in what the soil hasn't yet returned.
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Gyeongju lies in North Gyeongsang Province on the southeastern coast, about 370 kilometres south of Seoul by KTX. It was the capital of the Silla kingdom from 57 BC to 935 AD and held that role through the Unified Silla period after 668 AD, when most of the surviving monuments were built. The population today is roughly 250,000. UNESCO inscribed the Gyeongju Historic Areas in 2000, covering five protected zones: the Namsan mountain reliefs, the Wolseong palace site, the Daereungwon tumuli, the Hwangnyongsa temple ruins, and the Sanseong fortress.
Bulguksa Temple, on the western slope of Mount Toham, was completed in 774 AD under King Gyeongdeok. The two stone pagodas in its main courtyard, Dabotap and Seokgatap, are Korean National Treasures No. 20 and No. 21; the inner inscription found inside Seokgatap in 1966 is the oldest surviving woodblock-printed text in the world. Above the temple, a sixty-minute climb, the Seokguram Grotto holds a single granite Buddha facing east toward the sea. Both sites were inscribed by UNESCO in 1995.
The historic core is walkable. The Daereungwon tumuli park, in central Gyeongju, opens daily and includes Cheonmachong, the one royal tomb visitors may enter. Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, lit after dark, draw visitors in the evening: early April for the cherry blossoms along the Bomun Lake road, late October for the maple turn on Mount Toham. KTX trains from Seoul Station reach Singyeongju Station in about two hours; a city bus connects the station to the historic district in twenty minutes.