— — the city the water folded itself around.
“A small Korean city circled by reservoir lakes: Soyangho to the north, Uiamho cupping the old centre. The Bukhan River was dammed mid-century and the valleys filled, leaving Chuncheon ringed in water. Trains from Seoul arrive in just over an hour. The dakgalbi shops on Myeongdong Street still cook chicken on tabletop iron pans, the way they did before the rail came through.
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Chuncheon is the capital of Gangwon Province in northeastern South Korea, about 75 kilometres northeast of Seoul. The city sits in a basin ringed by three reservoirs: Soyang, Uiam, and Chuncheon, formed when the Bukhan River was dammed between 1965 and 1973. Population is roughly 280,000. Two rail lines, the Gyeongchun and the faster ITX-Cheongchun, run from Seoul Yongsan Station to Chuncheon in about an hour. Nami Island, the small crescent in the Bukhan downstream of the city, draws several million visitors a year.
The three reservoirs that surround Chuncheon are working dams. Soyang Dam, completed in 1973, is among the tallest rockfill dams in Asia at 123 metres and still generates power for the Seoul corridor. The water of Uiamho holds the city centre on its north shore, with a long footbridge over to Jungdo Island. In autumn the maples along the lake road on the Bukhan turn the colour of the bridge railings, a thin oxide red.
Trains from Seoul Yongsan run frequent service on both the Gyeongchun and ITX-Cheongchun lines; the express reaches Chuncheon Station in roughly 70 minutes. From there the Myeongdong dakgalbi alley is a short walk, a block of restaurants serving the city's signature dish, spicy chicken stir-fried at the table with cabbage, rice cakes, and sweet potato. A ferry leaves Gapyeong for Nami Island every half hour. The Soyang Dam observation deck is reached by a short bus from the centre.