— — the port the coelacanth came home to.
“South Africa's only river port, at the mouth of the Buffalo River on the Indian Ocean coast of the Eastern Cape. The beaches run north from the harbour: Eastern, then Orient, then Nahoon, with Nahoon Reef working the long left-hand wave that surfers from the rest of the country come for. In 1938 a fishing trawler landed a coelacanth here, a fish thought extinct for sixty-six million years. It still sits in the East London Museum.
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East London is a coastal city of about 268,000 within Buffalo City Metropolitan Municipality, Eastern Cape Province, midway between Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth) and Durban on the Indian Ocean coast. The Buffalo River reaches the sea here, making it the only river port in South Africa. The city was founded in 1836 as a supply landing during the Frontier Wars and grew around its harbour and the railway inland to Bloemfontein. Xhosa is the dominant first language across the surrounding rural Eastern Cape; English and Afrikaans are widely spoken in the city itself.
The first living coelacanth known to science was landed at East London on 22 December 1938, pulled from a trawl off the Chalumna River by Captain Hendrik Goosen. Marjorie Courtenay-Latimer, curator of the East London Museum, recognised it as something extraordinary and preserved the specimen. The fish, named Latimeria chalumnae in her honour, had been thought extinct for sixty-six million years. The original mount still sits in the East London Museum on Oxford Street. Nahoon Reef, six kilometres north of the harbour, holds a long left-hand wave surfed since the 1960s.
East London is reached by King Phalo Airport, about ten kilometres west of the city centre, with daily flights from Johannesburg, Cape Town, and Durban. The N2 highway runs through. Summer, from November to April, brings warm humid weather and Indian Ocean swimming; winter days stay mild and dry, with cooler inshore water and good light for the coast. The Esplanade promenade runs from the harbour to Eastern Beach. The East London Museum opens daily except on major public holidays.