— — a small capital that keeps its river at the centre.
“Ljubljana sits along a slow bend of the Ljubljanica River in central Slovenia, the medieval Old Town curved beneath a hill crowned by the castle. Most of what gives the city its shape, the Triple Bridge, the colonnaded market, the willow-lined embankments, was the work of one architect, Jože Plečnik, between the wars. The river still carries small boats between the bridges.
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Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia, a city of about 295,000 on the Ljubljanica River in the centre of the country. The Old Town curls along the river beneath Ljubljana Castle, a hilltop fortress whose earliest walls date to the eleventh century. Slovenia gained independence in 1991, and Ljubljana has been the capital since. The city sits roughly halfway between the Julian Alps to the north and the Adriatic coast at Koper, about ninety kilometres southwest. Most visitors arrive by train from Vienna, Zagreb, or Venice.
The river embankments, the Triple Bridge, the Central Market colonnade, and the National and University Library are the work of Jože Plečnik, who returned to his birthplace in 1921 and reshaped the city over the next three decades. Plečnik used Slovenian limestone from the Hotavlje and Podpeč quarries, the same warm grey stone that lines the Ljubljanica's walls. UNESCO inscribed his Ljubljana works as a World Heritage Site in 2021. His Triple Bridge, completed in 1932, fans three spans across the river at the city's heart.
Ljubljana is small enough to walk in a day. The Old Town runs along the east bank of the Ljubljanica between the Triple Bridge and the Dragon Bridge, completed in 1901 with four copper dragons at its corners. A funicular runs from Krek Square to Ljubljana Castle in about a minute; the walk up the hill takes fifteen. The Central Market, designed by Plečnik and opened in 1944, runs along the river weekday mornings. Slovenia uses the euro.