— a white rock the sea keeps lit.
“A small granite outcrop about twenty-four nautical miles east of mainland Singapore, where the strait opens into the South China Sea. Horsburgh Lighthouse has stood on it since 1851, named for a Bombay Marine hydrographer. The Portuguese called it pedra branca, meaning white rock. Tankers pass close enough to read its number. The sea keeps it lit even in the haze.
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Pedra Branca is a granite outcrop roughly the size of half a football pitch at the eastern entrance to the Singapore Strait, about 24 nautical miles east of mainland Singapore. Horsburgh Lighthouse, built between 1850 and 1851 by John Turnbull Thomson, has marked the position for shipping ever since. The International Court of Justice awarded sovereignty to Singapore on 23 May 2008, ending a long dispute with Malaysia over the rock and two nearby features, Middle Rocks and South Ledge. Its Portuguese name simply means white rock, for the bird guano that bleaches the granite.
The rock is fine-grained granite, low and flat enough that a heavy swell breaks across it. Thomson's lighthouse rises 28 metres from the base in dressed granite blocks shipped from Pulau Ubin and Karimun, a Scottish design fitted to an equatorial sea. The Maritime and Port Authority of Singapore maintains the light, helipad, and a small detachment that lives on the rock in shifts. There is nowhere on the outcrop that is not weather. The granite holds the heat well after the sun is gone.
Pedra Branca is not open to the public. There is no jetty for visitors and no scheduled boat. The closest a civilian usually gets is the deck of a container ship coming up the strait, where the light shows for a few minutes off the port bow. The Maritime and Port Authority of Singapore handles all access, and the rock is staffed only by rotating personnel. The place exists in shipping charts, in the ICJ judgment of 23 May 2008, and on the horizon.