— — the city the two rivers meet at.
“Belgrade sits on a high bluff where the Sava runs into the Danube, the old fortress of Kalemegdan holding the point. The Ottoman walls look across the water at the flat Pannonian plain to the north. Below the citadel, river barges run as bars from dusk until late. The old town climbs the hill in Habsburg facades. The newer half lies on the other bank, Soviet-built and wide.
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Belgrade is the capital of Serbia, population about 1.4 million, set on the bluff where the Sava River joins the Danube in the country's north. The site has been settled for at least 7,000 years and has been fought over by Celts, Romans (who knew it as Singidunum), Byzantines, Bulgarians, Hungarians, Ottomans, and Habsburgs in turn. The city straddles two regions: old Belgrade on the southern bank and the Yugoslav-era New Belgrade on the Pannonian plain to the north.
Belgrade Fortress, known as Kalemegdan, occupies the strategic point above the river confluence and has been continuously fortified for over two thousand years. The visible walls are mostly Austrian and Ottoman, built and rebuilt between the 15th and 18th centuries. The Roman castrum of Singidunum lies underneath. The Church of Saint Sava on Vračar hill, completed in 2021 after eight decades of work, is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world and dominates the southern skyline.
Belgrade is reached through Nikola Tesla Airport, eighteen kilometres west of the city. Skadarlija, the cobbled bohemian quarter just east of the main square, holds the oldest tavernas. The Saturday market at Kalenić Pijaca is the largest in the city. The splavovi, river barges moored along the Sava, run as nightclubs from May through September. May and September are the easiest months for walking the fortress; July and August are hot and the river barges are full.