— the sea Lawrence knew, still the same blue.
“A Red Sea port about 350 kilometres north of Jeddah. The old town keeps a quarter of coral-stone houses where T.E. Lawrence stayed in 1916, when Yanbu was the staging ground for the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans. The modern city west of it ships much of the kingdom's refined oil. Between the two, the lagoon holds the colour the Red Sea is famous for, the blue with green underneath.
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Yanbu al Bahr, 'Yanbu by the sea,' sits on the eastern shore of the Red Sea in Al Madinah Province, Saudi Arabia, around 350 kilometres north of Jeddah and 220 west of Medina. The city has been a port since the first century BCE, serving as Medina's outlet to the sea. Greater Yanbu's population is around 330,000. Yanbu Industrial City, founded in 1975, holds one of the largest petrochemical complexes in the Middle East and is run under the Royal Commission for Jubail and Yanbu.
The Red Sea here runs warm across the year, between 22 and 30 degrees Celsius, and the reef wall offshore drops sharply within a few hundred metres of the beach. Yanbu's dive sites, including Seven Sisters, Sharm Yanbu, and the wreck of the Iona, sit on coral known for sharper colour than the more diluted reefs further south. Visibility commonly runs over thirty metres. Hawksbill turtles, reef sharks, and Spanish dancers are common sightings. The water is calmest from April through October.
Old Yanbu, Al Balad, keeps a quarter of coral-stone houses with carved wooden mashrabiya screens and inner courtyards, the same Hejazi-coastal style that Jeddah's UNESCO old town shows on a larger scale. The most famous house is Beit Al Naqeeb, where T.E. Lawrence stayed during the 1916-17 Arab Revolt, when Yanbu was the staging port for the move on Medina. Restoration work led by the Saudi Heritage Commission has reopened parts of the quarter since 2019.