— — the desert station the railway forgot.
“A high-desert city of the Tabuk plateau, about 770 metres up, the last major Saudi stop on the old caravan road north to Jordan and the Levant. The Ottomans left a small stone castle in the old town and a stone-built station of the Hejaz Railway just beyond it. Cooler nights than the rest of the kingdom; cooler winters; a quiet market for the region's stone-fruit. The Red Sea coast opens to the west, where NEOM is rising.
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Tabuk lies on a plateau in northwestern Saudi Arabia at an elevation of roughly 770 metres, about 150 kilometres east of the Red Sea and 220 kilometres south of the Jordanian border. It is the capital of Tabuk Province, the largest of the Saudi regions by area, and the historical centre of the northern Hejaz. The city sits along the route of the old caravan road from Damascus to Medina and, more recently, on Highway 15 and the northern leg of the Saudi rail network.
Tabuk Castle, in the old town, was rebuilt in 1559 under the Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent on the site of an earlier fort that protected the Hajj caravan from Damascus. The two-storey square plan around a central courtyard is small enough to walk through in twenty minutes. A short walk away, the Hejaz Railway station, built in stone in 1906 under the German engineer Heinrich August Meissner, still carries its original water tower, locomotive shed, and a parked steam engine.
The Expedition of Tabuk in October 630 CE brought the Prophet Muhammad's army north from Medina in the ninth year of the Hijra. No battle was fought; the campaign returned south after a treaty was signed with the Christian governor of Aylah on the Gulf of Aqaba. The associated mosque of Al-Tawba, rebuilt in the 1990s by the Saudi government on its traditional site, is among the few places in the kingdom marked by an explicit event from the Prophet's life.