— — the city the heat lets go of in summer.
“A mountain city of the Hejaz, lifted to about 1,879 metres in the Sarawat range, two hours by road east of Mecca. Long the summer retreat of the Saudi royal household and of pilgrims who can climb the escarpment for a few cool weeks. The rose harvest comes in late March and runs about forty days; the city's small distilleries press the petals into attar for the perfume markets of the Gulf.
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Ta'if sits on the western edge of the Sarawat mountains in Mecca Province, Saudi Arabia, at an elevation of roughly 1,879 metres. The city is reached from Mecca by the Al-Hada road, which climbs the escarpment in tight switchbacks, or by cable car from the lower town. Its summer climate is markedly cooler than the Tihamah coast below, which is why the Saudi royal court has long retreated here in July and August. The population of the urban area sits near 700,000.
What the city sells is altitude. Temperatures in midsummer typically run 15 to 20 degrees Celsius below those of Jeddah and Mecca on the coast. Pomegranate, fig, and stone-fruit orchards terrace the slopes around Al-Shafa, southwest of the city centre. The Hejazi rose, Rosa damascena trigintipetala, was brought to Ta'if by Ottoman cultivators in the seventeenth century and now grows in some two thousand small gardens along the Al-Hada road.
The rose harvest defines Ta'if's calendar. Pickers gather petals before dawn from roughly late March through early May, when many millions of blooms move through the city's small distilleries. A traditional batch yields about twelve grams of attar — a single tola — from twelve kilograms of petals. The annual Souk Okaz festival, revived by the Saudi government in 2007 on the site of the pre-Islamic literary market, draws poets and merchants back to the plateau each spring.