— the green that grows back after the mountain.
“The main island in the Windwards, with La Soufrière at the north end and Kingstown at the south. The volcano went off in April of 2021 and the ash reached Barbados. A few years on, the rainforest has come back faster than anyone expected. The fishing boats still leave Owia at first light.
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Saint Vincent is the largest island in the nation of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, in the southern Windward chain of the eastern Caribbean, between Saint Lucia to the north and Grenada to the south. It is volcanic in origin and runs roughly thirty kilometres long, dominated by La Soufrière at the north end at 1,234 metres. The capital is Kingstown on the leeward coast. The Botanical Gardens above the city, laid out in 1765, are the oldest in the western hemisphere and still hold a breadfruit tree descended from one Captain Bligh brought from Tahiti.
The leeward coast runs to black sand at Wallilabou, Buccament, and Layou, where the volcanic origin reads in the colour of the beach itself. The windward coast is rougher; the Atlantic comes in straight and the fishing villages of Owia and Sandy Bay launch their boats in the dark. The reef off Bequia, across the Bequia Channel, has held generations of Vincentian boatbuilders. The water around the southern Grenadines stays warm year-round for swimming, though hurricane season runs from June through November and can turn it overnight.
There is no direct long-haul service to the island. Flights connect through Barbados, Saint Lucia, Trinidad, or Miami to Argyle International on the windward coast, opened in 2017. Driving the island takes about three hours end to end along a single coastal road that turns inland north of Georgetown. The climb up La Soufrière is a four-hour round trip on a good day and closes when the volcano is restless. Most visitors base in Kingstown or near Indian Bay and ferry out to Bequia for a day.