— — a city the road from the west has always met first.
“One of the oldest cities in Russia, set on a bend of the Dnieper where the trade road from the Baltic to the Black Sea once ran. The red-brick kremlin walls, the gold dome of the Assumption Cathedral, the long view down to the river. Smolensk has been taken and given back many times. The bells still ring in the morning.
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Smolensk sits on both banks of the upper Dnieper River in western Russia, about 360 kilometres west-southwest of Moscow and 50 kilometres east of the Belarusian border. The city is first mentioned in Russian chronicles in the year 863, making it one of the country's oldest continuously inhabited settlements. The historic centre stands on the hills above the river, ringed by the surviving stretches of the kremlin wall built between 1595 and 1602 by the architect Fyodor Kon. The population is around 320,000.
The Smolensk Kremlin's red-brick curtain wall once ran for 6.5 kilometres around the city, with 38 towers; about half the wall and 17 of the towers survive. Fyodor Kon designed it under Boris Godunov as the western shield of Moscow, and it held against the Polish siege of 1609 to 1611 for twenty months before falling. The Cathedral of the Assumption, gold-domed and visible from across the river, was rebuilt in its current Baroque form between 1677 and 1772 above the foundations of the twelfth-century original.
Smolensk has stood at the western gate of Russian history. Napoleon's Grande Armée fought a major battle here in August 1812 on the march to Moscow, leaving much of the old town burnt. In July and August of 1941, the Battle of Smolensk delayed the German advance for roughly two months and is counted among the earliest checks on Operation Barbarossa. The city was named a Hero City of the Soviet Union in 1985. Reconstructed neighbourhoods now sit beside surviving medieval lanes throughout the centre.