— — the river that holds the white night.
“The river that made Saint Petersburg possible. Seventy-four kilometres from Lake Ladoga to the Gulf of Finland, wide and grey, with the Winter Palace standing on its south bank as if it had always been there. In June the sun barely sets and the bridges lift after midnight to let the ships through. Nobody on the embankment is in a hurry then.
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The Neva runs about 74 kilometres from Lake Ladoga, Europe's largest lake by area, to the Gulf of Finland at Saint Petersburg. The course is short but the volume is immense, second only to the Volga among rivers reaching European Russia. Peter the Great founded the city at the river's mouth in 1703, and the Neva's main branches define the historic centre. The Hermitage and the Peter and Paul Fortress sit on opposite banks. UNESCO inscribed the river-shaped historic centre in 1990.
The Neva carries roughly 2,500 cubic metres per second into the Baltic, draining a basin of about 281,000 square kilometres through that one short channel. The current is fast enough that west winds back the river up against itself, which is how the great 1824 flood swept through the city — the one Pushkin wrote into 'The Bronze Horseman'. The water reads dark and cold even in July. Some twenty bridges cross it inside the city. Thirteen of them raise at night for shipping bound for Ladoga.
For about three weeks around the summer solstice the sun stays so close to the horizon that the sky never fully darkens. This is the period Petersburgers call belye nochi, the white nights, and the river takes on a pale silver that lasts past one in the morning. The central drawbridges open between roughly 1:10 and 5:00 a.m., and crowds gather along the embankments to watch. Tchaikovsky scored part of his first symphony to the same mood. The light returns the Neva to the way Pushkin and Gogol described it.