— — the yellow building the city learned to lower its voice near.
“A yellow-brick block on a square named for it, a few minutes' walk from the Bolshoi. Built in 1898 as an insurance office, repurposed after the revolution, expanded by Shchusev in the late 1940s. The plinth in front of it once held a statue. The statue came down in August 1991. The square has been quieter since.
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Lubyanka Square sits at the top of Nikolskaya Street in Moscow's Tverskoy District, a few hundred metres northeast of Red Square. The building was designed by Alexander V. Ivanov and completed in 1898 for the Rossiya Insurance Company. Aleksey Shchusev redesigned and extended the eastern façade between 1940 and 1947 to give it the symmetrical face it shows the square today. It has been the headquarters of the Soviet and Russian security services since 1918, housing in turn the Cheka, OGPU, NKVD, KGB, and now the FSB.
Yellow brick and limestone trim, neo-Baroque proportions stretched by Shchusev's 1940s extension into something closer to Stalinist classicism. The façade reads as one building from the square but is actually two structures joined: Ivanov's 1898 block on the south and Shchusev's eastern addition. The clock above the central pediment was Shchusev's. The interior courtyards held the Lubyanka prison until the late 1950s. Alexander Solzhenitsyn, Raoul Wallenberg, and Sidney Reilly were among those held and interrogated there.
On 22 August 1991, two days after the failed coup against Mikhail Gorbachev, a crowd in Lubyanka Square pulled down the fifteen-tonne bronze statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky that had stood in front of the building since 1958. A crane finished what the ropes could not. The plinth has stood empty since. Proposals to return the statue have surfaced periodically, most recently in 2021, and have not passed. The square is now mostly used by commuters between Kuznetsky Most and Lubyanka metro stations.