— — the gold of an onion dome above winter fields.
“A regional capital in Russia's black-earth belt, set where the Tuskar meets the Seym, about 500 kilometres south of Moscow. The Cathedral of the Sign rises in pale walls and gold cupolas over the old town, and Korennaya Pustyn monastery holds a river bend to the east. From the studio the place reads as a city that keeps its silhouette against a long, flat sky.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
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Kursk sits in the black-earth belt of western Russia, at the confluence of the Tuskar and Seym rivers, about 500 kilometres south of Moscow and 100 kilometres north of the Ukrainian border. The city holds roughly 440,000 people. First mentioned in 1032 and named in The Tale of Igor's Campaign, it was a frontier outpost of Kievan Rus, destroyed by the Mongols in 1240, and refounded as a Muscovite fortress in 1597. The modern oblast covers about 30,000 square kilometres of farmland and forest.
The Znamensky Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Sign, stands at the centre of the old town, rebuilt between 1816 and 1826 to mark Russia's victory over Napoleon. Its pale walls and central gold cupola sit on the site of an earlier monastery destroyed by fire. The cathedral houses, in copy, the icon of Our Lady of Kursk, the original a twelfth-century image reportedly found in the forest at Korennaya Pustyn east of the city. The monastery itself, founded in 1597, holds an annual procession to the cathedral each summer.
Winter in Kursk is long and grey, with January averages near minus seven Celsius and the rivers usually freezing by mid-December. The black-earth soil under the snow is among the richest in Europe, the chernozem belt that drew settlement here a thousand years ago. Spring comes slowly, with the rivers running into May; summer is warm and short, with July highs near twenty-five Celsius. The wheat and sugar-beet harvest of late August and September is the working season that has defined the oblast for centuries.