— — a volcano that smokes from its shoulder.
“A long volcanic ridge in the southern half of Kamchatka's Eastern Range, just inside Kronotsky Nature Reserve and a short walk above the Valley of Geysers. The complex carries three summits and a young cone called Stena, with persistent fumaroles on the western flank that read as steam against the snow most months of the year. No road comes within forty kilometres. Helicopters out of Yelizovo bring the small number of permitted visitors to Uzon caldera and the geyser valley, and Kikhpinych watches the whole basin from the south.
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Kikhpinych is a long stratovolcano complex in the Eastern Range of Kamchatka, with a summit elevation of 1,552 metres and three principal peaks along a north-south ridge. It sits inside Kronotsky Nature Reserve, part of the UNESCO Volcanoes of Kamchatka World Heritage Site inscribed in 1996. The complex is the immediate southern wall of the Valley of Geysers, the basin of the Geyzernaya River where roughly ninety geysers and dozens of hot springs cluster within a six-kilometre run. The Smithsonian Global Volcanism Program lists late Holocene activity from the Stena cone on the western flank.
There is no road into this part of the Eastern Range. Kronotsky Reserve was founded in 1934, closed to general tourism, and access is by helicopter from Yelizovo near Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, with a small permitted visitor quota each season. The walks at Uzon and along the Geyzernaya River are on plank boardwalks laid by the reserve to keep boots off the thermal ground. Brown bears outnumber people on the peninsula; the reserve estimates 700 to 800 inside its boundary. From the boardwalks at the geyser overlook Kikhpinych closes the south end of the view, almost always with a wisp of fumarole steam.
Visits run on day-charter helicopters from Yelizovo airport. A standard run lands at Uzon caldera and at the Valley of Geysers boardwalks below Kikhpinych, with about four hours on the ground. The season runs June through September; the rest of the year the basin is snowbound and the reserve does not fly tourist permits. A landslide on 3 June 2007 buried part of the geyser field and dammed the Geyzernaya River, and the field has slowly re-emerged; the reserve updates the accessible boardwalk route each summer based on what is safe.